This is my seventh time to Chile, and I guess you could say I'm a fan of the "cold water Indonesia", as I like to call it. Why do I call it that? Well, its waves are 80% lefts and yes, the water's chilly.
Chile is one of the places where I can find every type of wave: slabs, pointbreaks, beachbreaks, reefs, and "almost" waves (as in, "If we could only blow up that one rock it would be rideable"). Not only is the variety alluring, but the minimal crowds and consistency of the coastline is a main ingredient. Oh yeah, me being a goofy-footer and being surrounded by endless lefts with practically no one out is a dream situation. On top of all that, there's the culture, the friends I have there, and the food. It's all good!
I'm based in Pichilemu right now. I'm staying in my friend Diego Medina's guest cabana with my girlfriend Sheila. It sits on the beach in front of Punta de Lobos, one of Chile's premier big-wave spots. It's a left-hand pointbreak that can hold up to 25 feet.
The main reason for being here in Chile is to compete in the Quiksilver Punta De Lobos Big-Wave Invitational. We're in the middle of the two-month waiting period and event organizers want to wait for a 15 to 25-foot swell. It will be my first time competing at this surf spot, so I thought it was a good idea to come down here early and practice. I've also been surfing some other amazing waves in the local area.
Diego's been a great host. I've been able to tag along with him and get the inside scoop on where to surf, where to eat, etc. I have 31 more days in Chile. I'm sure there will be some adventures to report soon.